🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.